Yordie and I jump into the van at 0700 after a quick breakfast and along with our guide Tip, we head into the hectic rush hour traffic of Bangkok. The traffic is non-stop here. We purchased an optional full-day excursion that would include the Mae Klong Railway Market, a visit to a coconut farm and the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. At this hour, we were wondering why. We are tired and really need some down time to rejuvenate before we return to the real world.
Mae Klong Railway Market
Making it to the highway, we settle back for an estimated 110km drive to the Railway Market in the District of Samut Songhkram. I had researched this ahead of time and didn’t see us spending much time here, but the key is to arrive before the train does. The train passes through each day at: 0830, 0900, 1115, 1130, 1430, 1530.
Tip says something to the driver and he abruptly stops. We jump out of the van and follow her directions. She walks quickly and keeps telling us we must hurry and be careful of pickpockets. It is minutes before 0830. We move from a saunter to a mild jog to get to the market in time. Thankfully the sun isn’t at its peak yet.
We turn a corner and suddenly we are playing hopscotch on a railroad track. My eyes are looking downwards at every step so that I don’t turn my ankle or worse, trip. The smell of fish invades my nostrils. We are only 2 kilometres away from the sea. The colourful vendors are selling fish, vegetables, fruits, dried food, meats and tourist souvenirs. It is fridge magnet heaven, a tourist trap.
Tip purchases some fish to make an offering later on. We try not to think how that bag of fish parts is going to survive the heat of the van. Tourists from all over the world are vying for the best position to see the train arrive.
It is considered a life-risking market. The vendors put up parasols, canvases and awnings to protect them and their goods from the sun and with every train arrival, they have to roll them back and move their baskets of goods to safety until the train passes through.
We find a viewing location just in time for the train whistle to blow. There is some pushing while people claim their spot but overall it is civilized. Vendors are rushing to get their wares off the tracks and move everything back. There is little room between the track and the platform as you can see in the picture on the top-right.
The only thing protecting us from the track is a red chain strung loosely across the stall. The train leaves, the excitement is now over. The vendors replace their baskets and canopies as the tourists continue shopping. Everything goes back to normal until the next train. We move to meet our driver and head to a coconut farm.
We made Tip promise she would get us back to the hotel by 2:00 pm. She so desperately wants to show us the floating markets. One market is fine with Yordie and I, but there are three on the tour list. We will need to negotiate this.
Coconut Farm
The coconut farm, a 15 minute ride away, is a rustic enterprise located on a murky canal. I think the local soil might have something to do with the colour. It is a vibrant red brick colour. I tried to get an answer about the red soil vs. black soil but it was lost in translation. This is not an organized tour but rather Tip providing key messages as we walk through the farm.
The water is used for irrigation of the coconut plants. Tip explains the best trees for harvesting young coconuts are the short trees that don’t require people to climb them, keeping labour costs down. We see a bird menagerie, a caged iguana and a few very well-fed dogs. Tip takes her fish to the canal to make her offering and then throws down bits of meat in the dirt for the dogs to enjoy. Now we understand the dog’s girth.
We wind our way past different stations where they demonstrate how to extract the coconut creme from the pulp and how coconut sugar is made from distilling coconut water over a fire. It is similar to how we used to make maple syrup. We take a turn at stirring the coconut sugar water and then continue on to the next station. We take a seat while Tip organizes for us to each to receive a young coconut. One of the dogs has taken a liking to me and sits on my foot while I enjoy the the drink.
We return our empty coconut to the vendor who scrapes the meat out with a serrated tool. We eat the coconut meat which is incredibly soft and tender. The coconut I have been exposed to is usually hard and has to be grated but this was rubbery in consistency. I don’t know the caloric or nutritional value of a whole coconut, but I found it palatable but a little on the bland side. Yordie didn’t enjoy the texture. We did, however, enjoy the refreshing coconut water. There isn’t a lot to see here but it felt good supporting the locals. I purchased some coconut lip balm before leaving.
Damnoen Saduak Floating Market
Another short drive takes us to the floating markets. We board a long tail boat and make our way up the canal. We are warned to keep our hands inside the boat. It becomes apparent when we are 4 boats across bumping into each other as we make our way past the vendors. We stop and look at various rattan hats for Yordie before she decides to buy a couple.
You know me and shopping. This is just shopping on water. I could take it or leave it. We visit the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market and the Original Floating Market which is basically abandoned with the exception of the locals. It is interesting to see how the locals live in the back of the stalls and run their business out of the front. Back on land, we walk along the wooden walkways and check out different stalls. Tip buys us a mango smoothie which was large, refreshing and delicious. She promises we won’t get sick because this vendor is clean. Fingers crossed!
We are putting our trust in her. While enjoying the smoothie, there is an elderly woman at water’s edge making coconut pancakes. It’s called Granny’s Pancakes. Tip wants to buy us some mango sticky rice, but we refuse. We are still full from last night. Thankfully, it is cooler today. Yordie finds a cute wraparound skirt that turns into pants. I almost bought one, but decided against it. I’m not in the mood to shop. The key here is to barter with the vendors. It is expected. Tip negotiated for us a few times. I did find some cools items for the grandkids. I just think the waving cats are so sweet and will be appreciated by Henry and Finley. I also managed to pick up some stuffed elephants that I know they will cherish.
After the shopping bugs are satisfied, we happily head back to the hotel. Thanks to Tip and driver for getting us back by 1:30 pm. Time to take a dip in the beautiful pool at the Sukhothai Hotel.
We will join Sandy and Lorelei at La Scala (hotel restaurant) tonight for dinner but that won’t be until 7:00 pm.
We order a snack at the Pool Terrace consisting of Vietnamese fresh spring rolls and satay skewers, do some laps in the pool and then change for dinner.
La Scala
The meal at La Scala was lovely, but the ambiance was a little off for a Michelin restaurant. Rock music playing over the speakers was an odd selection for a dimmed-lit restaurant. Can’t say anything bad about the food though. Everything was lovely and a beautiful way to spend our final evening.
Wake up call tomorrow is 0345. We will be meeting our group in the lobby for check out. Breakfast boxes have been organized for pick up which can be consumed on our way to the airport.
Final Thoughts
I can’t believe this experience is over. Many thanks to Travel for Travellers by GLP Worldwide Travel for curating this amazing adventure. The Hong Kong and Bangkok segments were unique in their own ways. This trip was marketed as a culinary adventure and it did not disappoint. 5* all the way!
Hong Kong Wrap Up
Hong Kong Food Scene – the restaurant selections were amazing. Each selection reflected its own personality. From the whimsy of fun of Bo Innovation, to a take on traditional Cantonese at Demon Celebrity; to the down-to-earth local culture at the Lei Yue Mun Seafood Market; and the daily dim sum treats, I left with a better understanding of the Hong Kong food scene.
Hong Kong Wine and Dine Festival – it was a bit of a bust. Our start time was originally around 7:00 pm but got moved up to 4:00 pm and on opening day. The beauty of Victoria Harbour doesn’t come through in the daylight. I would revert to the 7:00 pm start time and not attend on opening day as the vendors are still setting up. If there was a suggestion for the Hong Kong Tourism Board, it would be to add more culturally-diverse food. Still, I can see this being a terrific draw for both locals and tourists.
Hong Kong Go City Pass – the 3-day pass in Hong Kong was perfect for exploring on our own. An amazing value. We completed all 3 routes on the hop-on/hop-off bus, we took the ferry between Hong Island and Kowloon. We saw the Big Buddha, went to the Peak and Sky Terrace on the tram and navigated to the Nan Lian Garden, Sneaker Streets and Mong Kok Ladies Market. A busy three days, but certainly worth it.
Octopus Card – Go to an MTR station get yourself an Octopus Card to be used for the subway, public transit and making small purchases. (This was not included in the package but a must to get around the city.) I was able to get the seniors fare also.
Note: Remember to go back to station to have them refund your balance but be aware there is a service charge.
Hong Kong Accommodation – the New World Millennium Hong Kong was lovely. The rooms and amenities were beautiful. I would have enjoyed a view vs being on a lower floor looking at rocks, but it was fine for the time we spent in the room. The breakfast buffet was abundant and introduced me to dim sum for breakfast. The pool was a little to be desired. The ladders were rickety, and there was caution tape in the deep end. Accommodation for those with accessibility issues was not taken into consideration.
Hong Kong was easy to navigate and I felt safe as a woman. English is readily spoken. You can still see the British influence.
Bangkok Wrap Up
Bangkok Food Scene – The Street Food Market Tuk Tuk Tour was an eye-opener to the local food culture and an evening I won’t soon forget. Even the barbecued insects were interesting. Le Du was a wonderful introduction to 5* dining in a smart casual environment.
Bangkok Accommodation – I declare the Sukhothai Hotel in Bangkok the best of both. As you enter the lobby, you are greeted warmly and immediately feel the zen. They market themselves as sublime serenity. Bang on! It is beautifully styled and that breakfast buffet! OMG!
Oasis Spa – The spa day was certainly something I was looking forward to, even if I was anxious about the Thai massage. Turns out, the Thai massage was the least of my problems. Sharing the room with Yordie was just plain weird. Tim and Chris didn’t have to share, so not sure why we had to. I would insist on my own room next time. The venue and treatments were lovely. I would return. Tipping around 10% is expected.
Tipping
Since I brought it up. Thailand is a tipping culture, but Hong Kong is not. Just make sure you look at your bill and check to see if a service charge has been built in. An example, at La Scala there was a 10% service charge on the bill.
A special shout out to Stephanie Ma and Timothy Tsung at Travel for Travellers by GLP Worldwide for the service and hospitality they provided. I always felt supported.
To the people we met along the way, you made the experience special and I hope our paths cross again. I send you best wishes for good health, success and future travels.
To Yordie, thank you for sharing this adventure with me and for moving outside your comfort zone. You did amazing. I hope we can share more times together, but you can get your own massage room next time! [Giggling here!]
I look forward to sharing my next adventure with you all my subscribers. Thanks for supporting me and following along?
Tell me – would you do a trip like this and why?
