Travelling Through the Andes to the Amazon Basin

Back on the bus, our driver, Roberto, navigates us into the Andes mountains. Weaving higher and higher the terrain is rocky and rough. I have a window seat towards the rear of the bus. Elena is stretched out and resting on the back seat while Lila (her mother) is across from me. Hopefully, Elena can sleep most of the way. I know how much she is looking forward to the next segment of this trip, especially with her interest in biology. The rocking of the bus can’t be helping her stomach at all. Fortunately, we make frequent rest stops.

Paso Papallacta

We are covering 195 km today and it should take around 5 hours with stops depending on the weather and road conditions. The bus climbs to 4063 metres/13,000 feet over the Papallacta Pass, the highest point of our journey. I’m not bothered too much by the altitude today. I noticed it more when flying from the Pacific Ocean to Quito where I had a touch of light-headedness but I adjusted quickly.

The bus must navigate tight turns. We pass oil tankers who are hugging the curves, gasping and shifting up the steep hills then braking and downshifting with a groan, warning lights flashing. There are numerous oil tankers on this road and this makes sense as we pass many small refineries along the way.

Ecuador has significant oil reserves, however the oil industry is declining due to the lack of investment in this sector. They have similar issues to what we experience in Canada with resistance to further development from the indigenous people.

The weather starts out sunny and as we cross over the pass, the rain starts. Not a downpour, just enough to make the road slick. There are many points on the road that are being repaired and you can see where previous rock slides occurred. We often have to slow down to a crawl to cross over gravel and road construction.

I am a little nervous, only because there is little room between the bus, the guard rail and certain death! I know it is dramatic, but when you are nervous about heights, it isn’t hard to imagine the bus careening over the edge into the valley below. I can’t believe people pass each other on this road. There must be some form of etiquette or silent signal drivers give each other to either warn or allow them to pass. I close my eyes, take many deep breaths and try to relax.

We are descending now, crossing bridges over rushing white-water rivers and in the distance volumes of water are cascading down the mountainside between forest and rock. As we get closer to the water, I see civilization of smaller communities popping up along the highway. Alpaca and vicuñas are dotting the landscape. Kids and dogs are roaming in their yards and there are even fruit stands on the side of the highway.

Baeza, Ecuador

Earlier, we stopped at a Puma service station and now it is 2:30 pm; time for lunch. I know I’m hungry. We pull over in the town of Baeza. The town is located in the Quijos Valley and is considered the gateway to the Amazon. It was founded in 1559 and is home to the Quiojos-Quichua indigenous people.

We walk up the street to Gina’s Bar/Restaurant where we receive a warm welcome. The menu is quite extensive and definitely a favourite of the locals. Carlos I, our guide translates the menu and some are having the chicken soup to warm up from the dampness. A few of us try the local brew and enjoy a delicious meal before heading to the Baeza town sign where we snap some photos. Once back on board, we prepare ourselves for the final segment of the day. We will drive to Tena another 60 km away and then on to the ecolodge.

Elena seems to be feeling a little better and is sticking to filtered water for now. She seems to be making some improvement. Thank goodness.

A few minutes into our trip, Roberto stops the bus at a lookout spot. We hop off, stretch our legs, grab a photo and jump back on. The current weather is iffy, but the sun is attempting to break through. It’s warmer now as we make our way deeper into the Amazon Basin.

It will take another hour up a rough jungle road to reach our destination, the Suchipakari Lodge.

Suchipakari Amazon Eco Lodge and Jungle Spa

Navigating the road to the lodge is like manoeuvring through a minefield of potholes. Not little potholes, but craters. The bus jolts us back and forth and I have to be careful not to put my head too close to the window to avoid being concussed. It is hard on the body. I am holding in my core to stay upright and avoid being flung sideways. I can’t see much anyways. It is dark, rain is streaming down the windows and the high humidity is fogging everything up. The bus is eerily quiet. I think we are all just done with the bus ride.

Finally, we arrive at the lodge parking lot. We grab our belongings, grab our flashlights and step off the bus. We navigate a 10 minute walk up a dark road to the entrance. This location is not for those with accessibility concerns. Personally, I am enjoying the rainy walk or perhaps just being off the bus. Every step is deliberate to avoid the water-filled pot holes. We wave and smile at the attendants who push past us quickly with our luggage. This walk will be beautiful in the daylight, I am sure.

The path follows the Pusuno Bajo River and you can hear the rain bouncing off its surface. Everything is amplified in the dark. I have on my rain jacket, a Tilley hat and hiking sandals so no real concern with the rain, however after a 10 minute walk, we are faced with 2 flights of stairs up to the main entrance. I take my time and like Rocky Balboa, dance with my hands in the air victorious at the top.

Moving inside the property, we walk by a beautiful pool and bar area into a pavilion with a reception area that also houses an open-style restaurant. The lighting is warm and the wood beams are deep red (likely Cuban cedar) but it is dark and hard to get my bearings. We are greeted warmly by Carlos II the local representative.

My Room

I am assigned room 102. Off I go in search of my home for the next two nights. Turning right out from the main lodge, I pass a gathering spot and follow a lit path where I walk cautiously. I hear sounds every time I turn my head and realize it is just raindrops falling through the huge leaves; at least that is what I’m telling myself. We are warned to turn off our room lights to avoid attracting bugs to our room. As I approach, my bag is waiting for me outside my door.

When entering, I am confronted with spacious surroundings decorated with bright orange and white accoutrements with a splash of green foliage. The queen bed looks very inviting. My curtains are tied back with orange fabric flowers. The room is simple and pretty. There is a private deck outside my room facing the rainforest and the sounds are incredible. To access it, I slide my screen door open. There is no glass, just screen, then jungle. There is a bar to secure the screen door, but anything large could pierce the screen. I’m not really concerned.

I have a private washroom with a shower. There is no dresser or closet, but there are shelves. Fortunately, I have everything in packing cubes, so I can organize that way. I notice there is a huge fan over my bed, but I can’t find the switch, but I will solve that myself later that evening.

I get myself cleaned up and head to the restaurant to join the others. As I’m leaving my room, which is at ground level. I discover that my next-door neighbour is James Leon our other solo traveller. We chat as we walk along the path commenting on the beautiful foliage and flowers and join the group at our designated table. Earlier, something jumped up on the railing and then ran away. My back is to the railing so I hope someone warns me if it comes back. Dinner is typical Ecuadorian fare. Meat or fish with rice and fried plantain. I’m fine with the plain menu. I know what I’m getting and its hard to mess up the order.

Conversation is light during dinner and I notice that Esther and JoAnn are not at the table. They must be exhausted from the travel day. I love how they make their own schedule. They certainly move to their own drummer. Good for them! Elena is here and seems to be feeling a little better. Lila seems relieved. Nothing worse than getting ill when out of the country.

After dinner, we meet in the gathering spot to get fitted for rubber boots that will be required for our Jungle Night Walk. Carlos II is deciding whether or not to conduct the walk because of the rain. It has been coming down in torrents. Even with rubber boots it could be treacherous. Finally, a decision is made and we make our way in a line behind Carlos II through the rainforest observing whatever he points out. I was delighted to see tree frogs.

A tiny crystal tree frog showed itself to us. The cicadas are so loud and every once in a while you can hear a twig break making you turn in that direction. Honestly the bugs are huge; cockroaches, African giant snails and bullet ants. I didn’t get to see a snake or anything furry like a tarantula but who knows what tomorrow will bring.

We return our rubber boots, receive instructions for tomorrow and then head to our rooms for the evening.

There was a giant bug in my room but I was able to ignore it. What I couldn’t ignore was the constant tapping of a moth flying at my front screen. My neighbour had left his lights on and my window was getting bombarded. I also didn’t have any hot water but I spoke with the manager and that should be remedied by tomorrow. Fortunately, I found the fan switch so the air is moving.

Laying under the cool sheets, I listen to the jungle night noises as I drift off to sleep. Tomorrow, we are visiting an Amazonian community and will take a canoe ride up the river to visit Monkey Island. Now that sounds like fun! Good night all!