Exploring the Gallipoli Peninsula: Anzac Memorials & Çanakkale

Today is a long driving day. In our Mercedes van, we are comfortable and cool on this warm day. The weather at this time of year is similar to what it would be like back in Mississauga, around the mid 20C. Everyone is talking happily and sharing what we enjoyed from the previous day. I find my spot at the back, left side of the van. Shannon is on the right side. I reflect on my grade 9 days when I was bussed to Mississauga from Etobicoke. The bumps are bigger in the back but we can see everything in front of us. Hearing Kivanç is a little tough partly because my hearing is competing with the laughter and sidebar conversations and his thick accent. He starts using the microphone which makes it a little better.

Today we are moving down the European coast along the Sea of Marmara. Many thought we would be crossing to the Asian side by way of the 1915 Çanakkale Bridge, the longest one of its kind, but it will be by ferry today. I love boat rides.

While on our way to the Asian side, we stop at Doyuranlar Gözleme, a roadside restaurant, to sample gözleme which is a stuffed flatbread. I am thirsty and enjoy a drink of tea and fresh peach juice from the owner’s orchard. The juice is fresh, sweet, refreshing and delicious! Isn’t eating al fresco the best? We sit at a picnic table under a twig pergola with white gauze netting. The gentle wind blows the gauze creating a beautiful, cooling atmosphere. I look off to my right and spy a cardboard cut-out of a police car with a flashing light used to tell drivers to slow down. I giggle wondering if this is an effective method to stop speeding. I had to snap a picture.

Boarding the van again, we head along the Gallipoli Peninsula to a location where there are many World War I monuments. We stop at one dedicated to the Anzac (Australians/New Zealanders) on the Strait of Gallipoli, also known as the Dardanelles or Strait of Çanakkale. By the way, Ç is pronounced as a CH. CHA-na-ka-lee.

The Gallipoli Campaign

Britain, France and the Russian Empire fought to take control of the straits, weaken the Ottoman Empire and capture Constantinople (now Istanbul). Freeing the straits would allow access to the Bosphorus Strait and thus the Black Sea which would allow supplies to reach Russia. There was an amphibious landing and a battle that killed over 8000 Australians and 1700 New Zealander soldiers. A total of over 300,000 soldiers died from Britain, France, Australia and New Zealand while 255,000 of the Ottoman’s died. April 25th is ANZAC Day. Anzac represents Australia, New Zealand Army Corps. It is a national holiday and a day for remembrance for the lives lost, wounded or captured.

This body of water connects the Sea of Marmara to the Aegean Sea and forms the continental boundary between Asia and Europe. We see many freighters moving along this waterway. It’s a warm day today, but a lovely breeze is coming off the water. The first place we stop has a wall where the Australians and New Zealanders landed. It is so peaceful with the Mediterranean blue water twinkling in the sunlight and poppy clusters blowing in the wind. After reading the plaques, we move along to other significant areas with cemeteries and trenches commemorating the battle where Australians and New Zealanders fought.

This stop is significant for our tour members with 3.5 being Australian. Sue, Evan, Kerrie, and Elizabeth. Elizabeth is the .5 as she is an American who married an Australian.

Çanakkale Ferry

Afterwards we head to the ferry terminal to take us over to the Asian side and the town of Çanakkale. The ferry runs every 30 minutes but there is a bit of a wait. We wait on-board the bus until we need a leg stretch. Joseph receives the signal to progress and drives the van on to the ferry. We all head up on deck to enjoy the sea air and sunshine. Once again, the seagulls are looking for their bread handout. We witness gulls taking bread out of the hands of passengers or catching morsels mid-flight.

Çanakkale City

I was looking forward to Çanakkale but I am slightly disappointed. It is a port city and full of artsy people peddling their wares or begging for money. Mind you, we arrive late. The restaurants are packed. We check into the Anzac Hotel where our windows open to a busy street. We drop our things and head outside to meet Kivanç for a short walking tour of the town. A highlight for me is the Trojan horse used in the movie Troy. It is on display in the centre of town. We take a group shot and continue on our way. The ancient ruins of Troy are southwest of the city, but not part of this tour.

Kivanç guides us around town for a high-level orientation. We stop at, Babalik Tekin Peynir Helasi, a store/cafe where they make cheese halva. The aroma reminds me of waffles and ice cream sold at the Canadian National Exhibition. Cheese halva is sweet like a pound cake and the dondurma (Turkish ice cream) is a wonderful complement.

With Çanakkale being on the water, it is starting to get cool. Our 80-year old tour member, Elizabeth, is weary and wants to head back to the hotel. The rest of us are up for something to eat. Kivanç compromises by suggesting a take-out meal of warm Turkish dumplings at Aşk-ı Mantı. Manti is Turkish word for dumpling and a delicacy to this region. They are exactly what we need. OMG, this is comfort food. The wind is picking up and the temperature has dipped to make it cool without a jacket. Elizabeth hides behind a folding sign to get out of the wind while we maw down on tiny dumplings. Most of us didn’t dress warm enough for this wind. Time to head back to the hotel.

I sleep well and awake at dawn to the Call to Prayer.

Halva Recipe

This is not a cheese halva recipe. Halva also referred to as helva or halvah is made from sesame paste (tahini) and sweetened with sugar or honey with pistachios added.

Intrepid Travel – Turkey Real Food Adventure