Turkish Breakfast
Kivanç promises us shopping for Turkish towels and silk scarves in Konya. First though is a full Turkish breakfast at Palize Kaahvalti & Mandira (translated to Palize Breakfast and Dairy) in Konya. Breakfast is definitely their specialty. This is an experience not to be missed. The interior of the restaurant is open concept, spacious and tastefully decorated. There is a tree, that looks like the Tree of Life in the centre. We are seated at a long table and never made to feel rushed. Kivanç organizes everything brilliantly. I just sit back with tea in hand, taking it all in.
The Turkish word for breakfast is ‘kahvalti’ meaning under-coffee or the meal you eat before coffee. Back in Canada, I can’t start the day without coffee, but here in Turkey, a perfectly brewed cup of tea is the standard. My pre-conceived notion that Turkey was a coffee culture has been negated. This is definitely a tea culture. The black tea of Turkey is lovely and served in beautiful curvy cups.
The food begins to arrive, my mouth agape at the selection and number of plates. It just keeps coming and coming until there isn’t an empty space on the table. We are all wide-eyed and giggle happily at this feast.
Breakfast included:
- Long beans, red lettuce, cucumber, and tomatoes with oregano
- Selection of hard and soft cheeses with walnuts
- Medley of olives including grilled and spicy olives
- Muhammara dip (made with roasted red peppers, walnuts, breadcrumbs, chili flakes and pomegranate molasses) served with fresh pita-like bread with black/white sesame seeds.
- Honey, preserves
- Dumplings and yogurt sauce
- Sunnyside up eggs (2 per person)
- Coffee or tea and water
This is served to each group of 3. With 9 of us, multiply those dishes by 3! I’m glad I’m not the dishwasher!
I savour each bite of eggy yolk, crispy bean, salty olive and cheese while sopping up spiced oil with fresh bread. Then like a dessert, the preserves and honey add a sweetness to the overall meal. My taste buds explode with every bite. This is divine!
We need a walk after that breakfast spectacular. We wind our way through another market, and I notice that the attire is significantly more conservative than what we experienced in the coastal towns. We are in the interior of Turkey. Women’s heads are covered in beautiful scarves, their bodies covered with long sleeves, and long skirts down past ankles where only the face and hands are in view. In this heat, I don’t know how they manage. We get curious stares even while we are dressed modestly. I’m certain, as tourists we look out of place.
Master Rumi Museum
We are dropped on one side of a road to navigate across tram tracks. The trams look modern. I can walk, but running can be challenging let alone hilarious to watch since my knee replacements. I look like a penguin rocking as I run. Best I stick to walking.
Once safely across, we enter the grounds of the Mevlana Müzesi. Mevlana means master. Who is the master? It is Master Rumi. Rumi was a 13th century mystic, theologian, and a Sufi. A Sufi is a person who practices Sufism. They belong to an order that believes in self-purification through living a plain life of poverty while strictly adhering to their religion. They believe this will elevate them to be closer to their God.
This location used to be his dervish lodge. With head scarf on a protective coverings on my feet, I enter. The beautiful blue-green dome where Rumi is entombed is held up by four columns (elephant feet). The building, over time, has expanded and other Sultans are also entombed here. Sultan hats adorn each tomb. The many glass chandeliers are stunning. It is like being in a Chihuly exhibit. The stained glass windows and architecture of gold, copper and wood takes my breath away.
Turkish Roses
Outside there is a beautiful fountain where worshippers wash their feet as well as a lovely garden filled with roses.Roses, in Türkiye signify spirituality, love and sanctity. You see them everywhere. The varieties are vast and their fragrances hang heavy with the humidity. They fill the air with sweet almost suffocating notes, somewhat like your grandma’s perfume.
Set your life on fire. Seek those who fan your flames.” Rumi
We did stop by a store for scarves and towels, and yes they had some lovely merchandise. A few of us picked up some handprinted silk scarves, but the towels were better in Selçuk. Shannon was happy she got hers earlier.
Göreme
We drive 3 hours to Göreme and see the fairy chimneys for the first time. These conical-shaped rocks were originally formed by volcanic ash and erosion. Then humans, back in the Roman days, carved homes churches, storage rooms and stables into the soft, yellow rock. There are also intricate underground cities created where people could hide from their enemies. We will be exploring them over the next few days.
We stop for a picture in front of the fairy chimneys and then off we go to check into the Ciner Hotel. The hotels are basic but this one has a little more room than others. I discover while on this trip there are different levels of comfort but this specific tour is considered ‘original’ or ‘basic’. My camping and hostel days are over and I enjoy some creature comforts now. If I had a choice in the future, I would choose at minimum one level up. This hotel isn’t too bad and it has a nice view of the mountains.
We are given a choice to see the Whirling Dervish this afternoon at our own cost or go into town. It didn’t take me long to say yes to the whirling dervish. After a clean-up and change of clothes, off we go to witness the Sufi Whirling Dervish for 30 euro. The location is beautiful in what looks like a stone monastery. We are seated in raised bleachers covered in blankets. We can see the floor perfectly from this height.
Sema Ritual
I witnessed a sema ritual a few years ago at a Tourism Turkey event in Toronto but only saw one semazen. Being witness to 4 semazens is beautiful and the music from the instruments and chanting is magical. The musicians enter first, take a seat and begin drumming and chanting. The sound of the flute lifts high to the rafters.
The semazens enter the room in single file with long black cloaks that symbolize death and on their heads are tall brown conical hats called a sikke. Once they are ready to begin, the ground is slapped signifying the Earth’s creation. The semazens walk around the room bowing to the crowd and to each other. Next, they remove their black cloaks revealing beautiful long white robes. When ready, a semazen begins to twirl in a counter-clockwise direction with arms folded on his chest. As the turning continues, the arms of the semanzen become outstretched almost like they are reaching for the heavens. The second, third and forth semazen follows. They are in a trance in order to reach enlightenment. With every turn, their robes lift up and out and you can see their slippered feet turning. The precision is stupefying. In this case, there is a man dressed in black, a contrast to others dressed in white and he weaves amongst the whirling dervishes without a collision. I wonder if he represents the evil in this world, but it is never explained to us.
After the ceremony, we wander throughout other rooms that contain beautiful, intricate, and colourful Turkish hanging lights. Oh, I would love to have one in my home, but I know the electrical requirements would have to be modified.
Roof Top Dinner
Our last stop for the evening is the Mithra Cave Hotel. I must tell you my feet are tired, and the floors are glistening from earlier rains. We wind our way up staircases to the Veranda Restaurant and once again we are greeted by an amazing view and eat an amazing dinner. When we are finished, the poor waiter doesn’t know how to give us separate bills. Kivanç had left us earlier to do his own paperwork and train another Intrepid leader. Shannon went from project manager to accountant and managed the entire transaction. Once the bill was settled, we navigated ourselves down the stairs. Why these places don’t have handrails, I will never know. It’s crazy! Safely down and into the van, we head back to the hotel for a nightcap and eventually bed.
Tomorrow is the Red Valley Walk and the fairy chimneys. I can’t wait!
