Bad News
The weather is a little iffy this morning with rain, and Shannon just received word that tomorrow’s hot air balloon flight has been cancelled due to unsafe weather conditions. Devastated is an understatement. This was to be the highlight of our trip! Balloon companies are required to receive aviation clearance and sometimes the weather patterns change from the original forecast, causing flights to be cancelled. Such is the case of our flight. Normally, this would be a good time to fly. Weather patterns are usually more predictable between April and November. Flights usually occur 250+ days out of the year. Since both of us are Murphy’s, we got the double-dose of Murphy’s Law. Regardless, safety first. I already have acrophobia (fear of heights), so knowing I’m safe is important.
Red/Rose Valley “Walk”
Arriving at the entrance to the Red Valley, the view is incredible. The shades of ochre from pale yellow, pink, purple and red disappear into the misty horizon. I slowly walk to the edge of the cliff to take panoramic photos of the peaks and valleys.
We are the only people here except for the merchants selling, dried fruits and nuts from their stalls. The weather likely has deterred others. It’s damp and chilly and I zip up my purple rain jacket and put up my rain hood to protect myself from the drizzle and wind. We huddle inside a colourful tent and drink tea out of adorable mugs while we eat our dried fruits and nuts. Kivanç says it is good fuel for the day. Why do we need fuel for a walk? I soon find out!
Kivanç makes the decision for us to begin our walk. We descend into the valley. It had just finished raining, but the drainage was good. I was extra cautious with my footing. I don’t have hiking boots with me and I’m wearing my New Balance trainers. I’m protecting these new 2021 knees as I make the descent. I can feel my toes jamming in the toe box. I might have to adjust the laces soon.
We get to the bottom where we are presented with a rock outcropping that bulges out over half of the pathway. There is a thin limestone wall, the width of my size 7 foot on the left that if your foot misses you plunge into a steep gulley. To cross, we must put one foot on the path wall and edge along a ledge, shift balance from left to right foot while hugging the rock closely. Attempting this with a pair of double-Ds, sketchy balance and a fear of heights. Wowzers!
First attempt, it’s a no. I’m choking back tears, as I make a second attempt. I’m borderline panicking. I watch others do it and repeatedly tell myself I can do this. On my second attempt, arms outspread, my chest glued to the rock, legs shaking, I take my first step. Left leg up on wall, right leg on the path, inch forward, repeat. Dry mouth and lips quivering. All I can think of is falling backwards into the gulley. Kivanç tries to reach me with his hand. Left leg on the wall, right leg on the path, slide chest along the rock. I lock eyes with Kivanç who is gently encouraging me. Our hands touch and I know I have safely made it. I exhale while the gang shouts congratulatory hoots! I swear I can only hear blood pounding in my ears. Adrenaline! I take a deep breath and forge on. This is the first few minutes into the “walk”.
Incredible Rock Formations
Some of the gang either run ahead or lag behind the main group to climb the rocks or investigate the rock formations and crevices. Evan, our resident photographer, captures some amazing photographs. I continue at my own pace along inclines, switchbacks, and descents thankful my new knees are not causing me any issues. There are some cardio-crushing moments during some climbs, but no one is rushing me. My little legs are carrying me forward, slowly but forward. My face is always red and sweaty when I exercise so those that were thinking a coronary wasn’t far off, need not have worried. I have walked much farther than this.
About 3/4 of the way, we come around a bend, and a cute tea garden set in the middle of the mountain appears where we enjoy a hydration break. This “walk” includes amazing views, spectacular rock formations, and cool cave chapels carved into the stone.
The sun shines on the layers of the rock turning them from a burnished brown to a rose colour as the day unfolds. The vistas are stunning and it is hard to comprehend the massiveness of the valley. A Turkish Grand Canyon. I saw an ATV at the top of one of the mountains and it was a speck. Exploring these valleys by ATV would be fun. I even saw a few doing it on horseback. As much as I enjoy a horse, navigating the narrow paths on horseback might be a little unnerving for me. We complete the “walk” with our 80-year-old Elizabeth who surprises herself and us. She rocked it today.
Rose/Red Valley “Walk” Summary
- Along the 7.7 kilometres we covered, there are many Instagram-able moments, and I can only imagine what it looks like at sunset. Definitely bring a camera or sketchbook, or a portable easel if you are painter.
- Equipment: extra water, hiking boots, sun hat and for those needing the stability or security. I recommend walking poles.
- This 1.5 hour walk (as it was described in the brochure) is in fact 4 hours with stops and curiosity breaks. 1.5 hours would be without stopping.
- I would describe the Red/Rose Valley Walk as more of a hike vs. a walk.
- Recommend that Intrepid update their brochure so people of all levels and mobility are prepared. I would have felt more comfortable with the proper equipment. The distance is not the issue but I would have liked more information on the terrain.
- If you are ever in Göreme don’t miss out on the Red/Rose Valley but be prepared for the temperatures whether cool or hot.
I would describe the Red/Rose Valley Walk as more of a hike. I wish I had been prepared with walking poles and hiking boots but overall, it was worth the effort.
Cooking with Nuray
Tonight is another cooking class but this time it is in a cave home of the beautiful Nuray and members of her family and/or friends. She is so welcoming. We enter from a brick driveway into a cave through a huge wooden door. The entrance has a lace covering to keep the bugs out but still allow for airflow. We gather in a large room with a seating area which is cool in temperature and cool in design. There are steps that ends at a door halfway up a wall. I wonder what is behind it. There are couches around the perimeter grounded by a Turkish rug, and a coffee table. The room has been retrofitted with electricity so there are ceiling lights and one window.
When the kitchen is ready for us, we move up to a modest kitchen with one long table with enough chairs for the 9 of us. It is like sitting in my Grand-memère’s kitchen. Nuray does the introductions and puts us to work chopping, slicing, and dicing. We use a vegetable peeler to remove the outer skins of zucchinis. Not the entire skin, but rotate it and leave some peel on so it looks like white stripes. These are going to be deep-fried which is led by Shannon. I was happy to rest my feet after that ‘walk’ and take photos.
We make stuffed zucchinis and dolmas (stuffed grapevine leaves). We picked up some pointers from Nuray and then she put us to work to make a bunch the dolmas. She demonstrated and then we tried. It was hilarious. We clapped and cheered when we created a perfectly shaped dolma. It was so much fun and lots of laughs. Even Kivanç got involved with the chopping. Thankfully Nuray had prepared additional portions for us.
Perfect Meal To End The Day
After cleaning up, we sat down to a pumpkin soup that was grown in her garden, plus the stuffed zucchini, dolmas and two salads. One was a garden salad made with a pomegranate reduction and olive oil, and a fennel and onion salad. Dessert was a berry dessert and apple tea. A vegetarian feast! Delicious! It was wonderful to see a successful woman-owned business in such a male dominant culture. Nuray’s cooking class is a highlight for me.
Heading back to the hotel, we have a nightcap by the pool until the mosquitos decide to munch on our flesh. Jocelyn comes out to avoid a male hotel employee who is extremely annoying vying for for her affection. The man/kid wouldn’t take no for an answer, so Jocelyn hung out with us until we were ready to call it a night.
I will have no trouble sleeping tonight with the exercise we had today and a full belly. Tomorrow we will see the hot air balloons launch but sadly only from the ground.
