The alarm goes off at 4:20 am. There is only enough time to throw on some clothes and splash our faces with water before we meet Jocelyn and Greg in the lobby at 4:30 am. We head to a viewing location approximately 15 minutes down the road to witness the hot air balloons taking off for their dawn flights. I know I slept well because I didn’t hear the Call to Prayer this morning. I did, however, hear the German shepherd dogs chained up in the next lot though. They seem to be announcing the arrival of the myriad of tour buses as their tires whine down the road.
We cross the main road, and the excitement builds as we edge closer. The crisp air smells like propane. We quickly walk single file on the road shoulder that follows the mountain range to our right. Greg is leading the way. The sky is still dark and there is a thin yellow light running along the tops of the mountains like a gold thread, turning the sky above it an indigo blue. We veer to the right on a road leading us inside a property where it is a free-for-all in both directions. Cars, buses, trailers everywhere! Hot air balloon trailers rattle by after they have dropped off their equipment and head to the proposed landing zone.
Vintage cars, and convertibles with blaring music are carrying costume-clad passengers sitting atop the backseat cheering anyone who looks their way with magnums of champagne. Some are in roaring 20s attire with feathers and fringes while others are princesses and princes looking elegant in costumes rented for a special photographic moment. There are engagements, and buck and doe parties and as an observation, mostly Asian participants. The monstrous coach buses have Asian lettering.
Greg leaves us to look for a different perspective. Shannon, Jocelyn and I find a hilltop to watch the balloons inflate and eventually fly. The sparkling sun is about to burst over the mountains and it is so beautiful. This was to be the dream ending to our trip but it wasn’t meant to be. Shannon tried to find a workaround, and she eventually did for the following day though it would have meant moving outside of our tour and the protection of Intrepid. In addition, we would have had to make our own flight arrangements back to Istanbul at an additional cost. It could have been done, but I believe we made the correct decision to stay within the parameters of the tour.
The balloons are impressive in size and very loud! The colour of the fabric lights up with the filling of propane into the balloon. Flickering balloons rise into the sky, and slowly move away from us. I spy one that is all alone in a tiny cloud. I wonder what it feels like to be up there. The sky is perfectly clear and blue now; the temperature is cool. The sun comes up over the mountains, highlighting all the balloons all along the valley. As far as the eye can see are balloons at different heights. With more to come. There are two flights each morning, one before dawn and one after the sun comes up.
We stay long enough to see one descend, but Greg later says he saw one trying to land back on a trailer. That is insane! I am so glad I got out of bed to watch this. The balloons are stunning against the sky and the people watching is just as fun. It is an exciting experience even at ground level. A beautiful striped balloon passes in front of me. I feel like I can reach out and touch it. It looks like it is heading for a stand of trees but then smoothly rises over them.
Before we head back to the hotel for breakfast, I conduct a Facebook Live to show my followers back home what I am experiencing. Neither Shannon nor Jocelyn want to be on camera. “Not camera-ready they say.” I giggle over that.
Hot Air Balloon Summary
- Unless you are booking a flight as part of your tour package, individuals should book at least 6 months to a year ahead of your trip.
- There are different pricing structures depending on the comfort level you want. A standard group flight is between 200-240 euro while a champagne flight which is 15 minutes longer and fewer people in the basket is around 300-350 euro.
- Private flights can also be arranged for special occasions a significantly higher price.
- Flight times are between 30-45 minutes in length.
- Balloon flights run in all seasons, even the winter.
- Dress in layers as even in the summer it is cooler up in the air.
- Flights can be cancelled on the day of the flight and pilots must follow the aviation regulations.
- Pilots are certified and must have many hours of flight time before they can pilot a balloon. Choose a reputable company.
- Accidents can happen especially on a hard landing. Pay close attention to the instructions from your pilot.
Ömürlü Seramik – Ceramics Factory
Returning to the hotel, we clean up and have a decent breakfast before heading off to a ceramic demonstration at Ömürlü Seramik. The pottery master demonstrates how the clay wheel works and then asks for a volunteer.
Jocelyn volunteers to go to the pottery wheel and while she is moulding the clay, I play the Righteous Brothers song, Unchained Melody on my phone’s speaker. It’s the song from the movie Ghost where Patrick Swayze and Demi Moore have a loving pottery wheel moment. Everyone giggles, but Jocelyn is too young to get it. I show her later. My humour wasted on the young, I say!
Greg gives it a try and creates a small jar to the applause of the audience.
Shannon decides to give it a try when the blob of clay suddenly becomes moulded into a phallic symbol. There is blushing, and giggling from everyone including Shannon, until the pottery master gives it a slap. We all howl. Kivanç set her up. I used Shannon’s camera for a video. I have no proof this ever occurred.
Following the demonstration, we walk through the gallery and don’t get a chance to appreciate the artistry as the salespeople stalk us. We can’t move without someone trying to give us a price. It is high pressure sales tactics at its best, even more than the Turkish rug sellers. It wasn’t the best experience.
If Intrepid Travel reads this, I would recommend moving this activity to Lotus Ceramics Garden in Selçuk.
Soganli Valley Walk
We are heading for another “walk”. I specifically ask Kivanç about terrain, ascents, declines, and I’m told it is flat. We are in the Soganli Valley famous for interesting rock formations, cave homes, pigeon houses and churches carved into mountains. We stop for a relief break where we find local ladies making adorable colourful dolls and doing their best to sell them to us. The women of Soganli have been making these dolls for over 60 years now. It started as a grandmother making one for her granddaughter for school and since then they have taken off as an income producer. When they discover I am from Canada, they reel off sentences in French. I’m truly impressed.
The van navigates further down the narrow road. We grab our water and climb up some rocks and enter the Church with Snakes. No worries though, no snakes. There are remnants of drawings on the walls of Jesus and His apostles. Sadly, it has been defaced by graffiti and of course wear and tear over the years. These drawings date back to the 15th century. You can see a dining hall with stone tables and benches where the monks ate community meals, and a kitchen where fires cooked meals centuries ago. It’s amazing to believe monks lived here.
Across the road, a path leads upwards towards chapels and houses that are undergoing restoration. Kivanç is true to his word today. The path is maintained and flat. There are some hills but nothing crazy today. Yellow tape surrounds many of the structures preventing us from entering. We take turns exploring the available chapels and pigeon houses. I learn that the monks used the pigeon droppings to fertilize their grape vines.
Looking out towards the road, I see that coach buses are trying to get down the road and many have to back up. Kivanç gives us the sign that we need to get ahead of the crowd, and we head back to the entrance. Suddenly, Jocelyn passes me walking backwards. Earlier she was walking forward and lunging while working different muscle groups. Whatever works girl!
Dining Under A Tree Canopy
At the end of the 1-hour walk, we see that a film is being shot. Extras stand off to the side. Greg who is in the industry, goes and checks it out. We head back to where the Church with Snakes is. Kivanç negotiates a meal deal with the owner of the restaurant. We were supposed to eat gözleme where the ladies are selling the cute dolls, but I must say I am thrilled we are not. I have had my fill of gözleme.
Our group is escorted to a long wooden table covered in a red and black table clothes, under the shade of green trees. There are bare lightbulbs hanging through the trees. It must be spectactular in the evening. I’m sitting at the head of the table. Kivanç and our driver sit at a separate table. To my left are families having their main meal and children can be seen running and laughing along a small babbling stream. It is a serene location to enjoy our lunch meal.
We enjoy a bowl of lentil soup, and pieces of gigantic, fluffy discs of bread. Then a hot bowl of beef or chicken stew arrives. I have a glass of Aryan to cool off. The breeze dries the sweat from my brow, and the food satisfies the grumbling in my stomach. Sue orders a vegetarian stew that never arrives. When it is brought to his attention, Kivanç attempts to reconcile the situation quickly. The waiter in his haste is about to reach our table with Sue’s stew, trips over a root and the bowl drops, spilling its hot contents unceremoniously next to a tree root. Sue decides she can do without the stew and we settle the bill and leave.
I would recommend you take the time to eat at this restaurant. I don’t have a name, but you can’t miss it as it is the only one by the Church with Snakes.
Our next stop is the Turasan Winery for a tasting of a red, white and blush wines in their cave restaurant. Today feels like we are jamming things in. We get a quick review of the wines in broken English, sip, slurp and hop back into the van again.
Next it is off to the Özkonak Underground City. More rock and more carved out rooms. I join the others for the orientation, where we gather around a model and Kivanç gives us a cursory talk on this site’s wonders. I decide to stay above ground and enjoy this beautiful day. At this point, I have seen enough dark caves. I wander through the gift shop and as expected, everything is overpriced for the tourists. I spy a chair at an elevation where I can see the group come out, dawn my sunglasses and breathe in the fresh air while the sun kisses my skin. Bliss!
It was short-lived though. Less than 30 minutes later, the gang appear from the underground city. Evan and Sue said I made the right choice to stay above ground. There wasn’t much to look at and apparently there was another tour group making for close quarters.
Turkish Cultural Evening
Tonight is our wind up in Göreme. We are attending a Turkish evening of fire, food, music, and dancing. We clean off the dust from the day and change for what should be a fun evening. We are dropped off at a nondescript building, led down some stairs and seated at a raised table. We will be able to see the festivities from where we are but will need to navigate a high riser. We seem to be early as the restaurant is quite empty but it doesn’t take long for it to fill up.
The wine begins to flow and the food is amazing. Not everyone from our group attends the show, but Kerrie, Jocelyn, Greg, Jane, Elizabeth, Shannon, and I were eager. We are chaperoned by Kivanç. It is quite the evening. I have been waiting to try the Turkish drink, raki. It is like ouzo and served with water and an ice cube. I pass on the Turkish wine which is yummy but stick to raki and water. I’m glad I did.
At a point in the show, a very long conga line is formed, and we are ushered outside to a huge bonfire in a courtyard where dancing and singing continues. It is quite the scene. I spot Kerrie, Shannon, Jocelyn and Elizabeth feeling the music. Some are jumping up and down to the beat of the music in an almost frantic state. The fire is impressive. The spirit of the moment is wonderful and exhilarating. Maybe it is the raki?
We head back inside to watch more traditional dancing. In between sets, we get up on the dance floor and show our moves.
Towards the end of the show, there is a belly dancer and our Elizabeth, an ex-belly dancer shows off her moves to the crowd’s ovation. It is a fabulously fun evening and a great way to finish off this portion of the trip.
Tomorrow, we will fly back to Istanbul for our final night.
