Exploring the Galapagos – a Traveller’s Journey

San Cristobal Island

We hop the hotel shuttle and are met at the airport by an Exoticca rep who helps us get through inspection. I had to enter a separate area to have my carry-on luggage inspected using an x-ray machine while others checked their bags at the counter. The Mariscal Sucre Airport located about 18 km east of Quito is pleasant and organized.

There is no trouble getting to the gate. There are only 2. I’m surprised by how tiny it is for an international airport.

Antonio José Sucre, who the airport is named for, was involved in the independence movement in South America where he played an important role to free his countrymen from Spanish colonial rule. He was a military and political figure and quickly rose through the ranks to become a general by age 23. (EBSCO)

Before security at the Quito airpot, you must obtain a mandatory, non-refundable Transit Control Card for 20 USD payable in cash. This is required to visit the Galapagos Islands. This card is used to monitor the entry and exit of all travellers. Your passport is also required to obtain the card.

We wait until our flight is called and do some shopping for bottled water in the gift shop. Everything is in US dollars. Some of our travel mates are sitting in pink rocking chairs adjacent to the gift shop. The chairs are similar to Muskoka chairs (or Adirondack chairs for my U.S. friends). They look inviting but turn out to be extremely uncomfortable. I sit back and note to myself that we have a good group of travellers and I’m looking forward to sharing adventures with them.

3 hours and 55 minutes later after a stop over in Guayaquil, and a descent from 2,850 metres to sea level, we land at the tiny San Cristobal Airport. I disembark from the back of the plane and walk across the tarmac and into the airport. We line up and wait our turn. First, we show our Transit Control Card on our phones, then we continue to stand in line with giant fans whirring above us. The temperature and humidity is high. I hope the line moves quickly because I have to pee! The temperature and breeze is welcoming and warm. I am not complaining, but I am perspiring because I am wearing a few layers of clothing.

Everyone must pay 200 USD (adults) and 100 USD (children under 12) to enter the Galapagos Islands. Once you have your passport inspected, you move to the next station and hand them the cash.

We pay our Galapagos entry fee and then take our bags to the conveyor to be x-rayed again. What are they looking for? Drugs? No idea, but likely. Ecuador has had some scary moments lately. Presidential assassination attempts, and gang related murders. Although Guayaquil is considered the murder capital, Quito is right behind it. Maybe that’s why the tour company has us sleeping far from the downtown core.

After all the checks and scans, we head to the parking lot and share local taxis (included in our package) to our new home for a couple of nights, the Blue Marlin. Beforehand, I checked the reviews of this place, and I wasn’t going to get too excited. There were complaints about the breakfast, towels, etc. You have to take it all with a grain of salt. I wasn’t paying for 5 star so I certainly wasn’t expecting that quality.

I check into my junior suite on the second floor. I was pleasantly surprised. One floor down was a lovely pool and lounge area. As far as amenities it had the basics (shampoo, body wash, a bed, 1 towel, a sofa, table, television and refrigerator). What else do you need? The office sells local beer and we had some thirsty companions. We waited by the pool for our orientation and then we went to the pier for a quick tour of the town.

The island is San Cristobal and we are staying in the main town of Puerto Baquierzo Moreno which is the capital of the Galapagos Islands. The island was formed from 3 or 4 extinct fused volcanoes and has a population of around 6000 people. (Wikipedia)

Heading down the street, I have to be cautious with every step as the sidewalks are a little wonky. Concrete is installed at different heights and angles. We pass many fish restaurants, some empanada stands and little shops. Many storefronts are boat tours for the tourists and one has wet suits hanging outside. We learn later that is where we will go to get our equipment for tomorrow’s snorkelling adventure. Everything in town looks a little worn and there are many motor bikes with gas exhausts belching loudly.

Arriving at the pier, we walk to a railing and glance down into the water. Sally Lightfoot crabs are seen scurrying up the rocks with their bright orange bodies and sea lions are lazily lying on their backs. Some sea lion pups are bothering their moms and the alpha males are making themselves known by their loud bellowing. Marine iguanas are basking in the sun on the rocks. The stench is strong but you can’t help giggle at the antics of the sea lions. I’m already in awe of this place. I can’t wait to get out into the water.

Looking out to the water, there are large boats in the harbour bobbing on the waves. The sea is calm today and the temperature of 28C is warming my skin. A far cry from -30C a couple of days ago. This warmth is welcoming. I look forward to walking along the promenade and exploring this town further. I heard there is a monument to Charles Darwin further down the way. This island is where Darwin first landed in 1835. Surprisingly, I have already seen what this island has to offer with respect to wildlife just by walking to the pier! I am, however in search of two bird species; the blue-footed boobie and frigates. Of course, the giant Galapagos tortoise is on the list and I can’t wait to snorkel and see what the sea has to offer.

I meet up with Lila, Elena at La Pescadería restaurant to enjoy a meal. The wobbly wooden table on the street corner is quickly fixed by the server. James Leon passes by so we invite him to join us. I enjoy ceviche, a meal of fresh tuna and patacones (plantain) with a beverage while basking in the sun. Enjoying a nice meal, lively conversation and a cold beverage. What else do you need?

Back at the Blue Marlin, our fellow tour buddies are mixing and mingling at the pool. We get to know each other better. Dan and Lyn are from Milton, Scott and Mandy are from northern Ontario. Jo and James from Port Perry. Marty and Grace (Markham). We spy Jo-Ann and Esther (Toronto) our 82 and 85 year old companions busily getting themselves settled. The hotel put them on the 3rd floor and because the hotel was sold out were unable to move them to a lower floor. Some tour mates are already in the pool and others are lounging on chairs enjoying bottles of the local brew. I excuse myself to get myself unpacked before heading down to the corner store for some snacks and then off to the tour shop to collect my snorkelling equipment.

Walking in to the tour shop, I find a young man and and an older woman. She is seated behind a desk and has a huge smile on her face. The young man does the talking in English and she gives him instructions in Spanish. Could she be his mother? She is sizing me up. He hands me a short wetsuit and directs me to the change room to try it on. OMG have you ever tried on a wet suit? Fighting and squeezing myself into the suit leaves me sweaty and breathless. I come out of the dressing room with beads of sweat running down my temples. They are trying not to laugh because I’m sure I was groaning and giggling as I stuffed myself into the suit. Thank goodness it fit the first time because I wouldn’t have wanted to go through that experience a second time. I give them my name and a deposit and they hand me my bag with flippers, mask and wet suit. We are to meet early at the next pier over tomorrow morning. We will need 1 USD for the water taxi.

Back at the hotel, I get myself ready for bed. The air conditioning is working so I know I will get a decent sleep tonight. I fall into bed and sink into my pillow thinking of what tomorrow will bring. I’m so excited to go snorkelling. This is a dream come true.