Travel Guide: Journey from San Cristobal to Santa Cruz Island

Today, we are leaving San Cristobal Island for Santa Cruz Island.

After a light breakfast, we fill our water bottles and walk to the pier with our luggage. It’s a short, downhill walk. I can feel the sun beating down on my shoulders and it is still early, so I find a shady spot and wait our turn to board a water taxi. The sea lions are grunting and barking while the Lightfoot crabs are doing their funny walk below the pier. There is lots of activity in front of me as various groups are lined up for their water taxis. The boats on the bay are bobbing up and down, the sky is blue and there are diamond sparkles on the water. It’s a beautiful day.

How do we get to Santa Cruz Island? First you hop on a water taxi and leave your luggage on the dock. You take a seat on the taxi where we are tendered out to the speedboat ferry. As we hop onto the ferry which holds 20 people maximum, we receive a life vest. That makes me feel better knowing we will be travelling across open water for 2 to 2.5 hours.

The speedboat ferry trip itself is comfortable. Today it is, because the water is calm. They warn you ahead of the trip that it can be quite bumpy and if you are susceptible to motion sickness to take your medication. No worries about that today. I relax, close my eyes and listen to music with my noise-cancelling headphones. I’m so happy I brought the headphones. They were good to have on the plane ride and on the ferry. The ferry is extremely loud. You are covered and away from the elements but you can’t say the same for your luggage though. They pile it up at the back of the boat. The luggage is the first to get unloaded when you arrive at the Santa Cruz pier. One water taxi takes your luggage and another takes the passengers. You hand the man 1 USD cash as you exit. You collect your luggage at the pier and then walk into the inspection hut.

Suggestions:

1. Equip yourself with headphones to protect your ears from the loud noise of the engines.
2. Bring something to entertain you if you are sitting on your own (A book, music or download a movie on your phone)
3. Prepare for a bumpy ride – Take your motion-sickness medication before the trip.
4. Ensure you have a few ‘Benjamins’ (1 USD) with you for the water taxis.

Order of Travel and Costs

• Water taxi ($1 USD cash)
• Speedboat ferry (2.5 hour ride) (Included)
• Water taxi to pier ($1USD)
• Santa Cruz inspection

Everyone must go through inspection. The inspectors are looking for forbidden plants, seeds, fruits, etc. You are not allowed to leave the pier and enter the town of Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island without passing through the hut.

There is some confusion with transportation when we arrive. The Exoticca rep has a bus waiting, but it is not allowed to park where it is and needs to move. We wheel our suitcases along the promenade until we found our bus. This is a very busy hub and between the cruise ships and smaller vessels it is a little chaotic. Arriving at the hotel (Hotel Deja Vu) 5 minutes later, we enter a small concourse that overlooks a pool. We are too early for our rooms so our rep uses this time for orientation.

I keep eyeing the pool while he speaks and hope I will have time to enjoy it. I have been going at quite the pace. Our rep suggests we grab something to eat at a local cafe or explore town. All cabs are a fixed rate of $1 USD per person so you can hail one or call one from the hotel. Safety is not an issue here in the Galapagos. The crime rate is low and even theft is not an issue. Must be all the USD the tourists bring in. I never felt unsafe and never worried about walking on my own. As a solo female traveller, this is crucial. I don’t care for the location of the hotel. It’s approximately a 10 min walk to the downtown core through industrial surroundings. Not pretty at all. I would have preferred something closer to the water, but you get what you pay for, right?!

Mandy and Scott (French River lodge owners) and I walk to the local coffee bistro and grabbed some food. The food is fine and the cappuccino is delicious. Perhaps it is the added shot of Baileys. Scott and Mandy seem interested in trying some local brews and were heading into the downtown core. I decide to head back to the hotel where happily I find my room ready. I unpack and clean myself up. There is no real time for rest as we are being picked up at the hotel for the Santa Cruz Bahia Tour at 1:45 pm which will include snorkelling, a walk in the National Park and a short jaunt to a grotto.

Back on the pier, we board the water taxi and take it over to the larger boat where we receive our life jackets and head off over the beautiful water to our destination, Academy Bay, 20 minutes away. I stretch out my legs in the sun and don my sunglasses enjoying the breeze. As we approach the shoreline, it reminds me of Tobermory, Ontario. The water, a turquoise blue, and the rocks jutting into the sea from high cliffs. The cliffs are smattered with bird guano. This is definitely a bird perch area.

I spy pelicans, boobies and frigates. One frigate has her wings completely extended to allow the sun to dry them. The boat slows down and pulls up to a small wooden dock. We hop off and walk up some stairs to a beautiful lookout. Gazing down we see a channel of calm water where baby white fin sharks swim by. I am so excited to finally see a shark. White fins are not dangerous to humans. They are beautiful to see swimming in their own habitat. This protected area allows sharks to feed and grow without disturbance from humans. The calm water is a refuge from the wilder sea. I stay and grab some video footage while the larger group heads further down the trail. After 15 minutes they return saying they didn’t see much and they looked hot and sweaty. I’m glad I stayed behind.

Time to snorkel! It didn’t take me long to jump into the water. We were given snorkel masks but no flippers or a wet suit. I grab my GoPro and start exploring. The water is warm so a wet suit is not an issue but kicking in the current is a bit difficult. I don’t understand why flippers are not provided so having a safety vest on is a good idea if you aren’t a strong swimmer. Unfortunately, you can’t easily dive down with a vest on, but we are in a shallow area. The fish seem larger and colourful than what we saw on our last snorkel but the best part is when a SHARK swims by me! Awesome overload!

After the snorkel, the boat heads into a bay and stops at a pier. We are instructed to get off the boat, but I don’t want to. I had asked the guide what the terrain is like and he said rocks. I am done with rocks. Additionally, they might be slippery. I choose not to file and insurance claim and stay back. The guide was not pleased. I ignored him and found a spot in the sun and enjoyed the peace and quiet once we moored out in the bay. The men hopped onto another boat that pulled up and were enjoying some good bantering. I listened to their Spanish picking out some key words.

While I was enjoying a moment of peace, a giant sea turtle swam up next to me. What a beauty it was and this moment was mine alone to enjoy. Honestly, I shed a tear.

Go Pro tip – Ensure you bring a high-capacity micro disk for storage as you won’t be able to offload your videos to Go Pro Quik using hotel wifi. The files are huge!

Back at the hotel, my room is a little dated and smells a tad musty, but it has all that I need; a bed, a washroom/shower and a closet. There is a television, but the remote doesn’t work. Forget about a view, the windows are high up and all I see is a ventilation duct. Thankfully, it has air conditioning. I feel spoiled having my own room. I love the fact I don’t have to share my space. This is definitely not 5*, more like 3*. I will spend two nights here before heading back to the mainland.

Later on, Lila, Elena, James and I head to an Italian restaurant and enjoy a lovely dinner and lots of laughs. I still haven’t made it to the downtown core to explore and tomorrow will be a full day excursion to the Santa Cruz Highlands. Everyone is buying souvenirs but I’m waffling. With only a carry-on and small backpack, there isn’t much room for souvenirs. I’m sure the grandkids will get something but I have yet to see anything that attracts me to buy. There is a lot of mass-produced merchandise. I mean, how many booby shirts do you need?

I lay out my clothes and repack my backpack for tomorrow before falling into bed. Sleep is not an issue.

El Trapiche Ecológico Galápagos

Breakfast is early today and table service is good. We enjoy eggs our way, fresh fruit, juice and coffee. Most of our group will travel with us today to the Santa Cruz Highlands. We hop on the bus and enjoy a lovely drive up the E5 (see map) winding up the highland road. This is the same road we will be taking tomorrow to the Baltra airport which is on an island just off Santa Cruz.

First stop is the El Trapiche Ecológico Galápagos where the owner/guide, Don Adriano Cabrero walks us through the process of making coffee. We even have the opportunity to use the bean roaster. Don Adriano Cabrero is very entertaining and at one point, has Scott work the sugar cane press replacing the work of a donkey. At one point, he gently whips Scott’s back to get him to move faster. We had a good chuckle. Scott is a terrific sport.

A still is used to make ‘hooch’ from the sugarcane juice. I felt like I was in an episode of “Moonshiners“. I guess for the more erudite, it would be called artisanal liquor.

We are invited to try different versions of the alcohol. One is 80 proof while others are lower. They are all pretty strong. Don Adriano must be over 80 and is extremely spry. He has a twinkle in his eye, perhaps from the libations and is quite the entertainer. Our guide translates for him. At one point he takes a tin cup full of the liquor and throws it into the fire causing it to flare up; quite the spectacle.

In the rafters of the pavilion, we see a barn owl peering down at us. He is trying to hide his face in his wing feathers but we gently coax him. I haven’t seen many owls, so this was special for me. The flowers lining the pathways are happily blooming and I see another one of those trees that shed their pink flowers on to the carpet below. Dang, I forgot to get the name of it. Does anyone recognize it? My favourite though was the microphone flower seen at the end of the video above. It is gorgeous!

El Trapiche is lovely and peaceful. The tour itself is lighthearted, if not a bit contrived. I would recommend this to anyone due to its interactivity. Try the different coffee products which are included in the cost of entry and pick some up to take home. I bought a bag of the Trapicchino, a blend of coffee and sugarcane that can be mixed with hot milk for a warm drink. Mmmmm. This tour is suitable for older children also. Restrooms are available, if needed. Thank you to Don Adriano Cabrero for his attention and entertaining delivery. Stay well señor!

Los Gemolos

A few minutes up the road we come to Los Gemelos, Spanish for “The Twins” which are two massive craters formed by the collapse of underground magma chambers. I feel like I am in an episode of La Brea. The walls of the sinkholes are dripping with vegetation of moss and ferns. The plants are so interesting. You can’t see the bottom but I imagine dinosaurs roaming below. You are protected from falling into the chasm by strong railings and this is a terrific photo opportunity. The photos don’t really do it justice. The size of the craters are jawdropping. 1.6 kilometres in diameter and approximately 280 meters deep. I was lucky to see Darwin finches and the Galapagos mockingbird. You don’t need long to visit Los Gemolos and it is an easy stroll along a gravel pathway. The craters are across the road from each other.

Los Gemelos – Recommend 30 minutes to see both craters. There is no cost to enter. I travelled in late January which is considered the rainy season, so bring a light jacket, sunscreen, hat and water. Just be prepared for the elements.

El Chato Reserve

We are now off to see the Galapagos tortoises who roam freely on this land as well as a lava tunnel. The lava tunnels are supposed to give us a peek at what the floor of the craters we recently visited might look like after collapse of the chambers. I am looking forward to this. You have probably guessed I have an interest in volcanology and rock formations. If not, the secret is out!

Along the road, a tortoise stops traffic. There are significant fines for accidentally hitting a tortoise and the fines are even higher if it is done intentionally including jail time. In 2019, a person was charged 11,000 USD for accidentally hitting one. Ouch! Take your time Mr. Tortoise!

We enter the main entrance of El Chato Ranch where there is a museum/display area, a gift shop, restrooms and a restaurant. As we walk towards the lava tunnels, someone, I think Lila, squeals with excitement as she can see a group of tortoises in the distance. Our guide assures her that she will see them soon enough, but first the lava tunnel. There are two tunnels at El Chato Ranch and we take the shorter 200m tunnel where we don’t have to crawl. Thank heavens!

Lava tunnels are formed when lava flows, cools and with fluctuating temperatures, collapses. On Santa Cruz there are many lava tunnels but only a few can be accessed.

“Safety first”, I say as we begin our descent into the tunnel. I warn Marty about walking down the stairs while looking at his camera which is no different from the warnings I have for my grandkids with their tablets. He didn’t listen to me either. I had a good chuckle over that. My grandsons, Finley and Henry would love this experience!

We wind our way down into the depths to see the layers of lava and high cavern walls. Light comes through at junctures and fortunately they have wired lighting along the pathway. My eyes adjust and I enjoy the different layers of lava and watch Elena snap photos of the vegetation that grows in the dark.

The ascent from the lava tunnel is steep and of course the stairs are at different heights. I was winded but made it with little trouble.

Suggestion: Wear sturdy shoes with closed toes and you might consider a flashlight from a handheld source such as a cellular phone.

Giant Galapagos Tortoises

Climbing back into daylight and the humidity, we walk along a pathway and are confronted with a giant tortoise attempting to cross in front of us. We give it a wild berth and then my attention turns to the tortoise spa. There is a group of tortoises enjoying a mud bath. It helps them stay cool. They look like grey rocks against the ground and then one moves…slowly. Their faces remind me of E.T. They look grumpy and one gives me the side-eye.

We are allowed to get close to the tortoises but must stay a respectable distance away so as not to stress them. We don’t want to do that. I mean, how fortunate we are to be able to see them in person. Some people listen, while some get excited and have to be told to stop. I can understand the excitement. I’m thrilled to be standing on this precious island observing these amazing reptiles. I am living my dream, BUT my dream didn’t include tortoise poop. Ewwww It reeks! Little cannon balls or more oval packages of dung are on the grass so be watchful or stay on the pathways.

We head back to the pavilion to enjoy a delicious group meal. I have the tuna steak, pea risotto and roasted peppers. It is delicious. Afterwards, I check out the gift shop and take a photo of me in front of the tortoise shells before heading to the bus. The carbs from the risotto is making me sleepy so I lay my head back on the bus seat and enjoy the drive back to town.

Back at the hotel, Lynn and I decide to grab a taxi into town and then walk back. I really enjoyed getting to know her better. She is a retired detective but who cares what you do or did because you have common ground; your love of travel. She wants a photo of the Santa Cruz sign at the pier and I am happy to oblige. She had found a souvenir shop earlier and said she would point it out to me on our way back. This would be my only opportunity to explore, so we take photos of each other at the sign and then grab an ice cream cone for 1 USD next to the church. The inside of the church is beautiful and so is the outside. We stroll along enjoying our cone and come across lazing sea lions, sunning iguanas. and I find a pelican relaxing in a mangrove. There is this cool little garden where the walls are made of ceramics; a lovely spot to relax next to a children’s playground. Further down people are jumping into the water. I am sweaty by the time I returned but it feels good stretching the legs. I did manage to purchase something for the grandkids, a donation to the local economy. Here are some images of our walk:

I had leftover pizza from the night before, so I enjoyed that in my room, packed up my belongings and retired early. Tomorrow, we are driving to the Seymour Airport on Baltra Island and heading back to Quito.