Today is going to be an action-packed day and this blog post will be longer than usual. Grab a beverage, sit back and enjoy these two incredible places in Andalusía. Today we will be touring Sentinel de Las Bodegas and the famous town of Ronda.
This will be my first excursion with tour leader, Miguel from Oletrips. I always enjoy these small group adventures because I meet interesting people and learn so much about the surrounding region at a reasonable price. Also, since I don’t have a car, small group excursions are a terrific way to see the sites that may not have direct buses or trains.
MaryAnn, my friend who is visiting me for two weeks, grabs her café con leche (para llevar (to go)) and we stand outside waiting for the van. Today it contains 4 Canadians, 2 Danes, 1 Scot, and our handsome tour leader and Spanish driver, Miguel who originates from Cadiz.
MaryAnn and the Canadian couple (Carol and Don) from Belleville are in the back row, while, I converse with the Danes (Ulen, Lina) in the middle row. Another solo female traveller, Fiona, is from Scotland currently living in Switzerland. Fiona is practicing her Spanish with Miguel. Good for her for taking advantage of this opportunity to improve her Spanish.
Like the beginning of any trip, the conversation is quiet and timid. The drive will last approximately 1.5 hours by highway depending on the traffic.
The rain is gentle falling on and off. About 30 minutes into the trip, and out of the blue, Miguel announces that we likely won’t be able to go to Sentinel de Las Bodegas. The entire van goes quiet and no one says a word. He had explained it was for our safety and due to the rain, and that it would be difficult to navigate.
Some of us had already been to Ronda and Sentinel de Las Bodegas was the point of the trip. One of the participants is a geologist and seeing this village was extremely important to him.
We stop at a restaurant to grab a coffee and use the facilities along with three tour 44-seater tour buses. OMG if the crowds here are any indication of what it will be like today, it will be chaotic. As usual, there are never enough women washrooms and the line up is outside the restaurant. I gave up on the coffee, but MaryAnn endured and grabbed one for me. Lifesaver!! We downed the cafe con leche and headed outside. I went to the van along with the others, but where is MaryAnn? She is in awe of the landscape and is snapping photos of everything. I am waving my arms trying to get her attention but she is oblivious to anything but the beautiful surroundings. Eventually, she notices me and we are on our way.
She hasn’t seen anything yet!
Sentinel de Las Bodegas
Welcome to Setenil de las Bodegas. It is one of the many impressive ‘white villages’ in Andalusía. This village, 95 kilometres from Málaga is in the Cadiz province.
Thankfully, the rain subsides enough for Miguel to take us to the lower section of the pueblo. Looks like the message was received.
Sentinel de Las Bodegas is nestled deep within a canyon, created by the River Guadalporcun and is surrounded by fields of grain and olive trees. Its most impressive feature is the huge rocks that overhang the cave homes, bars and shops.
The town’s hilltop castle was once an Arab fortress. Looking upwards, you can see why Miguel would have been concerned. The village clings to the side of the hill, however, we are fine staying in the bottom area. Yes, it is touristy, but it is incredible and a definitely worth seeing.
While in school, I had a particular interest in geology. I was spouting off types of land formations, rock compilations, etc. while on the bus. I loved speaking to Ulen, the Danish geologist. I told him I had an interest in rocks, and he laughed and said, “I figured that.” Maybe I should back off? LOL
Not a chance! I followed him around as he pointed out significant gradations, fossils, minerals and explained how this area was formed. I could have sat and talked with him for hours. Very cool dude.
We didn’t spend a long time here, but we did explore some of the shops where things are at tourist prices. If it had been a drier day, we could have sat at street level enjoying a coffee or cerveza, however, water is dripping down over the rocks above on to the slippery cobblestone below. The rain has stopped but we still need an umbrella to protect our heads from the drips.
We stay or about an hour and head back to a meeting point while Miguel retrieves the van. We head to the highlight of the day, Ronda.
Ronda
A Little About Ronda
The town of Ronda, in the Málaga province, sits atop a mountain and was once a strategic military look-out. It is considered one of the oldest towns in Spain.
Approximately 100 kilometres from the city of Malaga, this charming place is a thrill for romantics, geologists, history and literary-buffs alike.
Ronda is split between the old and new town by the incredible El Tajo gorge. The old bridge was built in 1735 but sadly collapsed, killing 50 people. The impressive new bridge was built in 1793. The bridge measures at 93 metres high. It is stunning!
The history of Ronda is long and complicated. It was settled by the Celts in 6 BC and was originally called Arunda. It’s history can be read about in the link above.
You can see the Moor and Roman influence in its architecture.
How to get to Ronda
From Malaga
Bus – around 2 hours, 15 minutes – departs from the Estación de Autobuses terminal for around 19 $CDN
Train – 90 minutes with 1 stop in Antequera – departs from Maria Zambrano station with one change is around 23 $CDN
From Madrid
Train – around 4 hours, with 4 stops for around $CDN 62 one way.
Pick up from Nerja, Torrox Costa, Algorobbo, Torre del Mar take a small group excursion with Oletrips.
Plaza de Toros (Ronda Bullring)
We arrive at the Plaza de Toros around noon. Fiona decides to entertain herself while the rest of us explore the facility.
Spain’s history of bullfighting has long been controversial. Bullfighting began on horseback and not a bull against man while on foot battle.
Let me begin by saying I could never witness a bullfight or the hurting of any animal, I can, however, appreciate that bullfighting is part of the history of this beautiful country.
History of Ronda Ring and Bullfighting
Felipe II founded the Real Maestranza de Caballeria (Royal Riding School), the oldest and most noble order of horsemanship in Spain since 1485. The Catholic King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella won Ronda back from the Moors and ended over seven centuries of Islamic rule.
This facility built in 1785 is still used to train the Royal Calvary horses and we are fortunate to witness horses being trained before moving towards the main arena. Look at the grandeur of this training facility with its chandeliers, mirrors and light sconces.
Games and exercises using horses and bulls date back to the Middle Ages and it wasn’t until the 18th century that bullfighting against a man on foot began.
Entering the arena, there are no cheers for us, but I can envision the roars of olés and the throwing of roses as we walk on the same hallowed ground of those famous fighters, horses and bulls before us.
I spot the royal box, and Miguel points out the fences created to protect the fighters. He explains that bulls have been known to jump the wall and so fences were built in the inner circle to protect the fighters. This place is immense.
There is a young woman in the middle of the ring with a red scarf pretending to be a matador as her friends laugh and snap some Instagram photos of her poses.
The neoclassical columns, and gabled Arabic-tiled roof make this one of the most famous bullrings in the world. Architecturally, this two-tiered stone building is beautiful.
I learn that it wasn’t until the 1950s that the sequinned bullfighting costumes came to be. Around the grounds you will see tributes to famous matadors.
Also, you will see statues commemorating visits by Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles who contributed to Ronda’s fame.
Hemingway, a Toronto Star reporter, in 1924, came to love Spain and took many trips to watch or participate in bullfighting ferías such as the Pamplona Running of the Bulls or the Feria Goyesca in Ronda, an annual tribute to the famous matador Pedro Romero.
He particularly loved the dance of balance between life and death that bullfighting demonstrated. He wrote about Ronda in his novel ‘The Sun Also Rises’ and recommended Ronda to see your first bullfight in his short story ‘Death in the Afternoon.’ There is also a Paseo de Hemingway, named after him where he would take long walks along the precarious cliffs.
There were two main dynasties of bullfighters. There were the Romero and the Ordeñez families. Pedro Romero is the most famous bullfighter who fought 5000 bulls without getting a scratch. Caytano Ordeñez’ fame was achieved by adding the colour and flare to this game and attracted the likes of Hemingway and Welles to the Feria Goyesca mentioned above.
After exploring Plaza de Toros, Miguel leads us to a look out (mirador) to see the Tajo gorge and the new bridge. We are competing with many tourists to find a good spot to get a photo. Fortunately, there is a better place, if not the best place to see the gorge. The Casa Museo Don Bosco.
Don Bosco was a saint and an Italian priest. This mansion and grounds was used as a sanatorium for those in the Salesian religious order. Sure enough, we get some beautiful photos of the gorge and bridge.
We leave the museum as the rain starts to drizzle again. We are starting to get hungry for lunch and the cobblestones are slippery. I carefully watch every step I take. We pass plazas and mansions while we pepper Miguel with questions. He explains the downfall of the area at one time was due to monetary greed.
Before lunch, we have one more stop, the Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor.
The church had Moorish, Romanesque and Gothic influences. The Mudejar tower rises on the remains of the old minaret and is crowned at its top by a bell tower.
This is not considered a cathedral. It still feels special. In my opinion, it had a certain female energy. Perhaps it was all the Mary figurines and statues.
I sat down and said a prayer. I couldn’t help but get a little emotional from the experience. It was so beautiful. I took many pictures, but I would suggest you come and see it for yourself.
Time for lunch. Miguel led us back towards the bullring and then we took a turn down a road to this cool traditional restaurant, Hermanos Macias.
The waiter recommends either the oxtail or pork cheeks. I hadn’t eaten any red meat up to this point, so oxtail it will be along with a goat cheese salad that MaryAnn and I share. It is delicious, like every meal I have eaten in Spain.
We enjoy a leisurely lunch and then walk around the restaurant and bar. It is a true homage to bullfighting.
Next to the restaurant is a long bar. It must be a busy tapas bar in the evening. I can see people standing two to three deep drinking and noshing on tapas It must be incredibly loud. The tile work is magnificent.
We settle up the bill and head back to the van and drive back to the coast with a full belly and thoughts of matadors, roaring crowds and majestic views.
Ronda is truly special.
I love how you capture the little moments 💙
Thanks Bella.